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This is a copy of the book published by Nutech and reproduced here with permission, but without the excellent photographs that are published with the book.

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Nutech 2000


Chapter 6


" There is no ideal crucible, no crucible so perfectly sealed and protected that it can be considered a closed system, a unit absolutely isolated from the rest of the universe.

Raymond Abellio, circa 1975.

In this section, I would like to take you step by step, through the cell construction process. I have stated in other sections of this book and I would like to also state here that there are countless methods of constructing Orgone accumulators. The method described here is based on the Joe cell construction techniques. For a very comprehensive description of this type of cell, I would presume that the reader has read, or has access to, a copy of Barry Hilton's book, "How to run Your Car on Zero Point Energy ". This book contains in words and diagrams what Joe wanted the public to know about his cell. As such it is essential reading.

Note. I have a copy of the above book and recommend it to others, but!, that does not imply that I agree with the theories or facts as expressed by Barry and Joe. Nor does it imply that I promise you that if you buy the above book, you will be able to " run " your car, or even have a working cell. Simply stated, I see Barry's book and my own, as pieces similar to the pieces of others, in a jig saw puzzle. If you put all the pieces together, you will understand the life force, or whatever else you want to call it. You do not require all the pieces if you only want to " run " a car, but the more pieces you have, the greater is you understanding of the causes, not just the effects. Thus the car will run for a longer period of time without mysterious " down times ".

I am not interested, as established before, in arguing, challenging, debating, competing, or defending my written notes with any parties. I give you these notes freely as a pointer, to show you a method of cell construction that works for me. If you have something constructive to contribute, I will gladly alter my notes.

Right, with the preamble out of the way, lets get to work. I will go through each step:

A. Parts list.

B. Selection of materials.

C. Machining operations.

D. Options.

E. Assembly.

A. Parts list.

The following parts lists, tie in with section D.

Common to all vats and cells, you will require lugs that can fit over a ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) bolt, and multi strand wire capable of flowing 10 Amps continuously, red for positive and black for negative. You may want to purchase an in-line fuse holder and a few 5 Amp fuses to suit.

A1. Charging vat. ( Optional item ).

This vat can be any suitable low paramagnetic food grade steel container. A favourite with Joe and others is a stainless steel beer keg. These seem to be plentiful,. but be wary of quality. The seam welds are particularly paramagnetic. There is a story of Joe testing about a hundred kegs before he found one that he liked. Unless you are going to use the large cones, about 10 inches ( 250 mm. ) diameter, I see no useful purpose to have such a large charging vat. Even if you employ it to fill up your radiator, it is still a hell of a lot of water. I could see a use for one as a shared club or group resource, but not for one individual. I personally use a much smaller vat with an internal working height of 11 inches and a diameter of 8 inches. This type of keg has the advantage of not being seam welded horizontally half way up the container. This is exactly where you do not want any magnetic bands! My cone diameters are either 5.5 inches or 6 inches depending on the scrap metal dealer.

So, you will need:

1 x Keg of your chosen size.

8 x Cones of chosen size.

1 x Nylon, or similar, central cone support rod.

8 x Nylon, or similar, spacer washers to suit cones and central support rod.

16 x Neoprene O-rings to suit central support rod

1 x 300 mm. long by 6 mm. diameter ( approx ) stainless steel support rod. ( Use horizontally across keg to hold central rod and cone assembly ).

1 x 1 meter long ( approx ), by 12 mm. wide stainless steel strap, approximately 1 mm. thick.

6 x Stainless steel pop rivets.

Note. If you just want to get on with it, and you only want to charge your car cell, you do not require a charging vat. Its main virtue is the quantity of water and the ability to remove any scum from the top of the water. Unfortunately, as you car cell is enclosed, this scum is not so readily removed, but there is nothing to stop you charging the water in your car cell, tipping out you stage 3 water in a glass container, filtering this water and reintroducing it back into you car cell. Anyway, if you use the methods described in these notes, you will find that your scum will be at a minimum. I have always charged my car cells as a stand alone unit, ie. no charging vat. The advantages are that you know that the cell and the water are okay and not just the water, as the case would be, if you simply added the water out of your charging vat into your car cell.

A2. 4 cylinder test cell.

The test cell is a vital piece of equipment that you should make. It has two main functions: One, it is a training aid for you while you are learning about the different stages of charging the water. You will easily be able to observe the different bubble types, surface tensions, deposits in the sump and colloidals suspensions in the water. Two, you will be able to fill it up with suspect water from you main car cell and test to see if the water is still at stage 3. You do not have to be Einstein to work out that your test cell container should be transparent.

You will need;

1 x Glass or clear ( not translucent ) acrylic container about 6 inches ( 150 mm. ) diameter by about 8 inches ( 200 mm. )tall. The container must have a lid!

1 x Set of 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch cylinders about 5 inches ( 125 mm ) long.

18 x ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) diameter by ½ inch long spacers.

1 x Approx. 10 inches ( 250 mm ) stainless steel strap as per charging vat parts list.

2 x Small stainless steel nuts and screws to secure the strap to the plastic or glass container.

2 x Stainless steel pop rivets.

1 x 1.5 feet ( 500 mm. ) of heat shrink tubing to fit over you stainless steel strap.

2 x Lower acrylic support combs, ( to be described later ).

Note. If you use the glass jar, you may want to insert the negative via a ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) stainless steel bolt via a hole that you drill through the bottom of the jar. In that case, you will need a 3 inch ( 76 mm. ) stainless steel bolt, nut and washer, plus two Nylon or Teflon machined washers where the bolt exits the glass container. The extra effort may not be worth it unless you can get the parts cheaply.

A3. 4 cylinder car cell.

The construction of the 4 cylinder and 5 cylinder cells are the same except for the extra cylinder and 6 spacers. Thus I will only describe the construction of the 5 cylinder cell. If you want to make a 4 cylinder cell, follow the construction of the 5 cylinder cell without the extra cylinder.

Note. The only reason that I mention the 4 cylinder cell at all, is again due to the myths that have developed in the " field ". Basically, the story goes like this: It is rumoured that if you do not use the charging vat, you can only charge and run you car with a 5 cylinder cell. You supposedly cannot charge you water with a 4 cylinder cell, only run you car on it. Joe also mentions in his video that he thinks that the 4 cylinder may even run the car better than the 5 cylinder cell. Personally, I have found that you can charge both a 4 and a 5 cylinder cell and thus, they will also run the car. As the leakage of a cell is determined by the " layers " or number of concentric cylinders, the 5 layer cell is a better cell. I have found that a 5 cylinder cell works much better for me and I really have nothing to recommend the 4 cylinder cell for, except that it is a smaller cell. There is still meagre feedback from constructors, so the jury is still out.

A4. 5 cylinder test cell.

This is my favourite configuration. My very first test cell was a glass 5 cylinder cell with 7 inch long cylinders. This cell has been in constant use now, for about 6 years, still not broken after countless dismantles and services. The insulators and cylinders after 6 years are as good as they were on day 1.

This cell uses the ½ inch bolt-through-the-bottom alternative.

The construction is the same as the 4 cylinder test cell, with the addition of 6 extra spacers to support the extra 5 inch cylinder. That's it.

A5. 5 cylinder car cell.

This is the one, dear people. You either get this one right or end of Joe cell as reality and back to fantasy. This is the baby that has to seed and breed for you. This is the one that has to be reliable and sludge free. This is the one that people will judge your sanity on. If it does not work, you go down the path of all other failures and dreamers. Conversely, when you get it working, you will not be able to count all your new " friends ". They will all want one, just " like the wizard made ".

There are variations, I will give you my favourite one, you will need:

1 x Set of hand selected, polished, clean, low paramagnetic, ( maybe heat treated ) 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch inner cylinders, of 8 inch length, or length very close to 8 inches, as calculated from own your calculations as per Chapter 7.

1 x 5 inch diameter outer cylinder, as above, but 10 inches long.

1 x Lower plate, one 5 inch thread, one 5 inch O-ring seal and one 5 inch nut to suit the above

outer casing. This is not of-the-shelf. You will need machine work to make the press fit

section. See diagram.

1 x Top cone. This is a standard 5 inch to 1 inch tube reducer. Apex angle to suit material but between 60 and 90 degrees and optimally 57 degrees for 316L stainless.

24 x ½ inch diameter by ½ inch long ebonite or similar spacers.

1 x 3 inch long by ½ inch diameter stainless steel bolt, nut and washer.

2 x Nylon or Teflon machined insulators for bolt exit.

1 x 1 inch ( 24 mm.) diameter compression fitting for your cell outlet. This outlet will be a right- angle or straight fitting depending on your individual requirement. This is where your 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outside diameter aluminium engine pipe fits in.

1 x A suitable length of 1 inch outside diameter ( 24 mm. ) aluminium tube for your cell to engine blind plug fitting. ( My tube has a 20 mm. inside diameter but this is not critical ).

1 x 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) long, ½ inch ( 13 mm. ) inside diameter stainless steel tube. This slips over the stainless steel bolt and holds the inner cylinders clear of the bottom

3 x Acrylic combs to support the inner cylinders. Optional, to be described later.

Note. All components should have the minimum paramagnetic field possible. Your test magnet can be slightly attracted, but must not stick and support its own weight! All parts are to be cleansed in mild vinegar or acetic acid that has been added to juvenile water. Do not leave finger prints on any stainless steel surface.

Regarding heat treating, as the Curie point of most stainless steel is 800F and higher, our heat treatment must exceed this temperature. Two methods that work are:

1. Local advice from a Melbourne heat treatment operator: he suggests to place the material in an oven at 1200F for three hours in a Nitrogen gas, then reduce the temperature slowly to atmospheric over twelve hours.

2. TM Technology, ( http://.www.tinmantech/html/faq_stainless_working_joe-c.html ) suggest 800F to 1200F for ½ to 2 hours.

B. Selection of material.

Material selection can be broken down into:

B1. Stainless steel cylinders and cones or domes.

A vast amount of good advice and pure drivel has been written on this subject. So much so, that I had cell builders from USA telling me that the right grade 316l stainless steel is unobtainable over there, and Australia is the only place that is can be sourced from! I have also been told by " experts " that this steel can only be made in the Southern Hemisphere ( due to the Earth's magnetic field rotation, ) and that is why the Joe cell only works in Australia and New Zealand! When I tell them that I cannot afford to buy new steel and obtain most of my stock via scrap metal dealers from dismantled American and British food machinery, they then think I am hiding the truth from them and that I am somehow refusing to show them the " secrets " of the cell design. What can you do with some people?

So, where do we go to get this " unobtanium " material? Where is the line between fact and fiction?

First of all, let's go to the start of Joe and his cell designs. You would have noticed historically that he used plastic and stainless steel in his designs and, irrespective of the material used, ALL types of cells worked for him. So it does not have to be stainless steel at all! As I will show in a later book, stainless steel is really quite a lousy material, but will suffice for this cell. However, as people, including Joe, experimented with various chemicals, they discovered that some stainless steels had three main advantages; namely, it formed a good pressure container, it was impervious to the majority of chemicals and it was " non-magnetic ".

I will list some of the " non-magnetic " stainless steel, but please note that all stainless steel will be magnetic to some slight degree:

AISI 304. Used in dairy, textile, dyeing and chemical industries for containers subject to different types of corrosive conditions.

AISI 316. Parts for chemical and food plants, wearable for high temperature.

AISI 316L. As for 316, but with superior corrosion resistance when exposed to many types of chemical corrosives, as well as marine atmospheres. It also has superior creep strength at elevated temperatures.

AISI 310. Furnace parts, radiant tubes, annealing boxes and heat treatment fixtures.

AISI 410. Cooking utensils, turbine blades, coal screens and pump rods.

AISI 420. For the automobile and aircraft industry. Components such as valves, pistons, and nuts and bolts.

AISI 431. Parts requiring highest strength and rust resistance.

Now, for reasons that I do not fully understand, the Joe cell fraternity has decided that only 316L will do. I have proved over and over that this is a myth. Not only that, I would challenge any builder to pick 316L stainless from similar grades at a scrap metal dealer! What we are looking for are cylinders, cones and domes that have the least remanent paramagnetism. This is easily checked by taking your faithful rare earth magnet to your metal dealer. My magnet is only 5 mm. diameter by 3 mm thick and is attached to a convenient length of fishing line. By swinging the magnet near the stainless steel you will easily see how paramagnetic the steel is. Especially check the longitudinal or spiral seam welding. The magnet will be attracted to the seam, but reject the material if weld seam is discoloured for more than ¼ of an inch ( 6 mm. ), or it is a different thickness to the rest of the metal, or the magnet sticks and stays there supporting its own weight.


* Always have a keeper on your test magnet when you carry it in you pocket, as it just loves to " wipe out " credit cards and similar magnetic stripe products!

* Do not use a ferrite magnet! similar to the easily obtainable round speaker magnets that every experimenter has in abundance. These are nowhere near strong enough and you will be deluded into thinking that you have found " Joe cell steel heaven ", as the stainless steel will pass your magnetic tests.

If you plan to heat treat you cell components after all machining and welding operations, the selection process does not have to be quite so rigorous. I personally would get the least paramagnetic steel anyway, as it is no extra in a scrap dealer and you may not have to heat treat the completed cell.

* If you are buying new stainless stock be prepared for some awfully dodgy 316L stainless.

It seems to vary tremendously with the country of origin. I have found that certified stainless in a plastic wrappers and with '316L' written longitudinally and repetitively along the whole length is generally fine. You will find that when you spin a good piece in a lathe and gently hold it with your hand, a good piece will feel " round ", but with a bad piece, you will feel longitudinal ripples. Similarly when you are cutting a piece of genuine 316L you will hear a ringing and the saw will be really working to cut it. I have cut some so-called 316L that cuts like butter! Believe me, real 316L is a bitch to work with.

Summary of the above. Since 316L is " the best ", try to buy some certified 316L stock. Try to buy some seamless tube if you can. Do not buy any on some salesperson's guarantee that it is non-magnetic. Test it! If they will cut it free of charge, see how they cut it and get it cut at least 1 inch, ( 25 mm. ) oversize. Usually a top supplier will charge about a $1.00 a cut with a liquid cooled band saw. In such a case, you do not require a large waste margin, a ¼ inch will do for you truing operation on the lathe. Make sure that there are no dents or major scratches in the sections that you purchase.

The cones are usually an off-the-shelf reducer and you should have no problems in getting what you want ( except for price ). The cones normally have seam welds, so check these. You can also get of-the-shelf, any compression fitting, flange, thread, blanking cap, bolts, nuts and washer. What you can buy is only limited by the size of your wallet All certified stock, even the washers, will have '316' written or stamped into the component. If you are using dome ends of varying geometrical configurations, you will have to have them hand beaten or spun to you dimensions. I don't have to tell you that anything to do with stainless is expensive. Think about it three times and buy once only! Consider carefully what cone angle you want to use. For example, a cone reducer from 5 inches to 1 inch can be made in many different angles. Do not assume, that because the end holes are the correct diameter, that this automatically makes the optimum cone angle.

B2. Insulation material and cylinder spacers.

The insulation material that is used where the ½ inch ( 12.5 mm. ) bolt exits the lower cell fitting is not that critical. I have used Nylon, Teflon and similar polypropylene and polycarbonates. They all work fine. Find a plastics supplier and rummage through his bin of rod offcuts, or if that fails, you will have to buy some. The colour is not important. I use a white or off white as a preference. Teflon is by far the best, if you can afford it. I do not use it. I buy 2 inch ( 50 mm. ) greasy Nylon rod that is far cheaper and that I machine to my final sizes.

The insulators between the cylinders are a different story. These tend to have deposits formed on them over a long ( over 6 months ) period of time. The can also crack or loose their elasticity causing the cylinders to move, or they will disintegrate or turn to jelly. When I first started on this project, I copied Joe and used rubber " counter hose " as found on the roads in that era for traffic monitoring. This hose material is no longer in use, and there was really nothing special about it, just handy as it was always laying around on some road or other < grin >.

As my cell design developed, I started matching my materials with the Orgone polarity. I found sulphur based product ideal for the acid cell, so now I use ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) ebonite rod. I am not telling you to start using ebonite rod, only that it is a suitable spacer. Ebonite rod is quite cheap eg. ½

inch diameter by a meter long is about AUS $6.00. In Melbourne you can obtain it from E. C. Menzies Pty. Ltd., 19 Ewing St. Brunswick. Phone is (03) 9387-5544. As purchased, this rod is not polished and you could polish it with fine wet and dry emery paper if you so wish.

You can also use 100% silicon thick wall tubing, or red rubber chemical corks of the right size as recommended by Barry Hilton. I have tried a mixed set of the above in one cell to see which would fail first. I discovered that after 6 months both the silicon tubing and the rubber corks lost some elasticity and although the cylinders had not slipped, in a four wheel drive, rough terrain application, there would have been some problems. A neutral and superior spacer can be machined from Teflon rod and it works very well.

B3. Cell to motor tube.

This one is nice and quick. I have stuck to 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outer diameter aluminium tube, with a wall thickness of 1/16 of an inch, ( about 1.6 mm. ) so the inside diameter is 20 mm. It is readily obtainable, reasonably easy to bend, electrically conductive and works well as a guide for Orgone. I standardise on 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) outer tube diameter for all the cells that I make and supply and thus the cells are interchangeable for fault finding and performance checking. I would strongly suggest that the bigger groups involved in cell design, should agree to a set of standards for cell design that are mutually agreed to world wide. This would allow mass production of cells with the related advantage of cost cutting and uniformity. Other diameter of tubes and materials can be used, there is no rigid rule. If you find something that works for you and it is readily obtainable and cheap, please let me know so that I can add it as an update to this manual. For example, I have used normal clear plastic water tubing, covered it with aluminium foil and then I have heat shrunk a plastic sleeve over the lot to give it strength. Not as good as solid aluminium, but easy to form and easy to make when you have no access to solid aluminium tube.

So there you have it for the materials. Low component count, therefore simple and close to Nature.

C. Machining operations.

Machining operations can be broken down into;

C1. Cutting operations.

This is one of the important steps in cell construction. As previously stated, any high speed cutting at the steel supplier's premises will probably involve the creation of heat. Any colour change due to heat in the cutting operation must be removed from the final length of the component. That is why I suggested the oversize margin in B1. If the tube is cut with a liquid cooled bimetallic blade or at low feed speeds with a metal cutting disk, you will not see any colour change whatsoever! When I cut my tubing at home, I simply use a 4 inch ( 100 mm. ) angle grinder in a cutting attachment and slowly rotate the tube as I cut the steel. There is no colour change and I can cut my tubes so close to the finished size that the lathe work is only a truing operation. As mentioned above, I true the tubes and match for length at slow speed in the lathe. The final matching of the cylinders is done by holding a metal ruler across the tops of two cylinders. You should see no light under any of the four contact spots. I match all my cylinders starting at the 1 inch one and work outwards.

C2. Polishing.

This is not a difficult operation. I use about 400 grade emery paper and whilst the part is rotating in the lathe, I polish the internal and external tube surfaces. Do not polish to leave cross hatch marks, ie. do not move your emery paper laterally back wards and forwards at speed. Make you lateral traverses slowly. That's it, no mysterious techniques.

C3. Welding.

I have my parts either Tig, Mig or plain old oxy acetylene welded with 316L rod or wire. Again no mysterious techniques, just a good welder.

C4. Insulators and spacers.

I turn my chosen spacer material on the lathe. I cut off my ebonite rod or Teflon to ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) lengths on the lathe. Ditto, no mysteries.

As you can see, there is no laser cutting or matching to angstrom units for part dimensions. Nor is there any submerged welding by highly qualified aircraft experts. All operation can be performed by a handyman or the nearest machine shop.

C5. Press fit operations.

I sometimes press fit components. At all times, as a result of the press fit process, I make sure that I have no change in internal dimension and the press fit is exactly that, ie. not a finger push fit. I clean and " pickle " the surface prior to the press fit operation for about 15 minutes and then wash off the chemicals in juvenile water. On the external side of the press fit, I deposit a ring of 24 hour Araldite to guard against any weepage of electrolyte. The adhesive you, use whatever it is, must not be accessible to the internal working of the cell, otherwise it will deposit itself all over the cylinders and insulators and diminish or " kill " cell operation.

D. Options.

The following options are possible;

D1. Construction of a charging vat.

The options are related to the cone diameters As explained in A1, I make the small charging vats; Joe, Barry and others make the large ones that use 10 inch ( 250 mm. ) cones. There are variations in the quantity of cones, as used by Joe, and this is covered in detail in Barry's book. I prefer to use 8 cones, 1 reflector, 1 positive, 2 negative and 4 " spacers ". There are also variations in the support method of the cones. I prefer the central Nylon rod. Others prefer spacers between all the cones around the periphery of adjacent cones and an agricultural pipe up the middle of the cones ( see Barry's book).

As mentioned previously, unless you are after a vast quantity of charged water or have scum problems, you will not need it.

D2. Construction of 4 cylinder test cell.

You can have the outer container made from glass or acrylic ( Perspex ), but in all cases, make sure it is clear. The other variation is in the method of extracting the negative, either with a stainless steel strap out the top, or with a stainless steel bolt out the bottom. Again, it is up to you. The bolt out the bottom is a pain, as the container now has to be supported by a suitable stand. Also, the bolt method introduces further costs. For a test cell, it is not mandatory to use a bolt entry from the bottom of the cell.

D3. Construction of 4 cylinder car cell.

See notes for 5 cylinder car cell.

D4. Construction of 5 cylinder test cell.

See notes for 4 cylinder test cell.

D5. Construction of 5 cylinder car cell.

The variations are quite numerous. The obvious ones are the composition of the spacers and insulators. This I have covered and will not repeat.

We have a choice in the way that we " join " the outer cylinder with the cones or domes or plates .

We have a choice in the support mechanism for the inner cylinders.

We have a choice in the geometric shape of our top and bottom " covers ".

We have a choice in the way that we attach the ½ inch bolt to the 1 inch tube.

We have a choice in the outlet fitting type.

E. Assembly.

E1. Charging vat.

There are several versions of the charging vat. There is a thorough coverage by Barry Hilton in his book. I suggest that the reader has a look and then they can decide which version they want to build.

Either way, apart from size and some minor details, the vats are very similar. The one that I am about to describe is my version and matches the previous part list. I will keep this section brief, on the assumption that you have seen Barry's book. As you can see, the photos make the construction quite clear.

E1a. I will mention a few pointers that may be not clear from the photographs:

* Remove the metal mandrel head out of the pop rivets as the remanent head is not stainless steel and will be magnetic and will rust.

* The stainless steel strap from the two negative cones must not be cut, and thus is one continuous length ( as described in Barry's book ).

* The function of the O rings, is to allow the gasses liberated by electrolysis to pass via the irregularly cut central holes of the cones. You place one O-ring on each side of the Nylon spacers. So the order would be, one cone, one O-ring, one Nylon spacer, one O-ring and finally the next cone and so on with the next O-ring, etc. until you complete the cone stack.

As you can see, I have left this section very brief on the assumption that most readers will not build a charging vat, or if they did, there is sufficient information above if you study the photos.

E2. 4 cylinder test cell.

I will not cover this test cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder test cell, minus one cylinder.

E3 4 cylinder car cell.

I will not cover this car cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder car cell, minus one cylinder.

I have however, provided ample photographic views of the construction.

E4. 5 cylinder test cell.

E4a. The 5 cylinder test cell is similar to the 5 cylinder car cell as described in E5 below. When you complete you 5 cylinder sub-assembly as per E5c, palace it to one side and proceed with next step.

E4b. Have somebody drill the appropriate size hole in the bottom of the jar to match the stepped washer as per E5e. I drill my own hole in the glass, using the right size outer diameter copper tube. I attach this copper tube in a slowly rotating vertical drill and lubricate the copper cutting edge with a mixture of kerosene and fine valve grinding compound. The grinding compound can be obtained from any motor accessory shop. Go nice and easy, and frequently add new cutting paste. Haste means a broken jar, so do not say I did not warn you. When finished, dispose of the ground glass, paste, etc. in a safe way.

E4c. Assemble cylinder sub-assembly to glass jar as per car cell assembly. Do not over-tighten the nut! Fill with juvenile water, test for leaks, etc.

E5. 5 cylinder car cell.

E5a. Rather than covering the construction of Mark 1, Mark 2, mark 3, etc. types of cell, I will cover the construction of a 5 cylinder that I consider as the " best " of the simple type of Orgone accumulators that we have called the Joe cell. I cannot see any value in covering the other variants of simple type of 5 cylinder cells, only to tell you at the end to build the one I am about to describe.

E5b. Make sure that you hands are not oily and re-check that all cylinders are clean. Obtain a kitchen cutting board or a piece of MDF or chip-board or any smooth and level surface will do. We will assemble the cell upside down on this flat surface, as this will ensure that the finished cell will be flat across the tops of the cylinders, ie. the side that is on the flat surface ( as this is the critical area! ). As your cylinders will not be perfectly identical in length, this method will also place the irregularities towards the bottom of the cell, where it is not as important.

* The first step is to prepare our ½ bolt, so that the hexagon head is a tight press fit into one end of the 1 inch cylinder. A minimum amount is ground or turned to off from the hexagon head so that the bolt head is a tight interference fit inside the tube. I have seen bolts with unaltered heads hammered into the pipe. Depending on the bolt, this caused the tube to assume a hexagonal appearance where the bolt head was forced into the tube. It still works okay, but it is not aesthetically pleasing. If you perform the task correctly, there will be a minimum of distortion to the outside of the tube and the water will be able to flow easily in and out the tube via the hexagonal flats of the bolt head, as they are not touching the inside walls of the tube.

* The head of the bolt is pressed into the tube until the bottom of the head is in the tube by ¼ of an inch or 6 mm. See diagram and picture. If you look through the tube you must see adequate clearance for water flow. On the bolts I use, when I finish the lathe work, all the hexagon shape is removed and I have to grind 3 slots in the head with my angle grinder to provide channels for water flow. When you roll the 1 inch tube on a flat surface the bolt shaft should roll with no wobble. This verifies that you have pressed the bolt head squarely into the tube. It is easy to drive some bolts into the tube and not keep it concentric-centric with the tube. The end result is that the whole inner cylinder assembly will be askew and interfere with the proper seeding of the cell.

E5c. Now take your 1 inch tube and place it upright on your assembly board, with ( obviously ) the bolt toward your face. Remember that the flat board end of the tube will finish up as the top of the inner cylinder assembly. Take you 2 inch tube, slip it over the 1 inch tube and position it so that there is an equal gap between the 2 inch and the 1 inch tube. As you build up your inner cylinder assembly you will repeat this step with you 3 inch and 4 inch tubes.

* Take 3 of you chosen ½ inch (12 mm. ) long insulating spacers and force them into the gap between the tubes at 120 degree spacing. Push your insulating spacers into the tube until they are below the tube edge by ¼ of an inch ( 6 mm. ). As I use ½ inch ebonite spacers, I have to file a flat to reduce the overall diameter of the ebonite before I press fit them into the tube. I place this longitudinal flat towards the convex or outer cylinder surface for best friction fit. If you use Teflon or Nylon rod, you will have to machine this tolerance factor into you rod diameter before you cut it up into you ½ inch spacers. Naturally, this problem does not exist with rubber hose or any other malleable material. You will find that if you use a malleable material, with time, your cylinders will sag and you will lose your critical level top line-up from inner cylinder to inner cylinder. In that case, I would suggest that you make a supporting comb assembly under the cylinders to support them. I have made these out of Perspex ( acrylic ) and they resemble a comb with the teeth facing upwards. The cylinders fit in the roots of these teeth, with the teeth spacing being the gap between adjacent cylinders. Please be wary of the type and quantity of acrylic that you use. Several experimenters have found that some grades of acrylic can short circuit the cylinders if used for separators or support medium. Avoid acrylic and similar materials until you become more proficient with cell characteristics.

* You now reverse your 1 inch tube and do the above, for the top 3 insulators. As the bolt body is obviously in you way when you try to place the tube on your flat surface, you will have to drill a ½ inch hole in your assembly board. I hope that it is not your wife's or girlfriends chopping board or bread board! So now the finished product is a 2 inch cylinder supported by 3 top and 3 bottom spacers with a dead flat relative top surface.

* The above procedure is repeated for your 2 inch to 3 inch tubes, and your 3 inch to 4 inch tubes. I find that for the 3 inch to 4 inch tubes, it is better to use 4 insulators at each end for a total of 8 instead of 6 inter tube spacers. The reason is that the larger diameter of the 4 inch tube now allows considerable flexure and 3 insulators at each end are not enough for a firm fit.

* There is no magic in the alignment of inter tube insulator line-up. Some perfectionists insist in having 3 radial lines ( as in three spokes of a bicycle wheel ), radiating out from the center, with 120 degree spacing. I have not found this critical. You now have a inner tube cylinder sub-assembly completed. The last step is to put the assembly back on your flat surface with the eventual working top down, and the bolt pointing up towards you. Now with a wooden or rubber mallet, gently tap all the cylinder edges, as to force the eventual top surface to be perfectly flat. Great, put this sub assembly to one side and let's move on.

E5d. To assemble the outer case of the cell, the following welding and machining operations are required:

* Have your top cone to compression fitting welded together. I would suggest that your compression fitting is designed for 1 inch ( 24 mm. ) outer diameter tube. This way, all club members or larger groups will be able to interchange cells as a help with car conversions. After the above welding, remove any " dags " that resulted from the welding operation. Grind and polish this junction, so that the internal transition from cone to outlet fitting is as smooth as you can achieve, without ridiculous fastidiousness. Check that the joint is water tight.

* Press fit your modified thread to one end of the 5 inch cylinder, making sure that the 5 inch cylinder protrudes slightly below this male thread, so there is metal to metal contact with the lower cap when it is assembled and the 5 inch nut is done up . This step must also allow reasonable compression of the O-ring. See pictures.

* Have the cone welded to the other end of the 5 inch cylinder. As in the step above make sure that the transition from cone to outer cylinder is smooth on the inside. Check that the joint is water tight.

* At this stage, have you outer assembly heat treated to remove the paramagnetism from the welding operation. I do not do this, I use the unit as it ends up after welding and the cell works okay, but to guarantee the success of your cell, I would strongly recommend the heat treatment step. When the unit come back from the heat treatment people, lightly repolish the outside and inside. Also, at this stage, run a bead of 24 hour Araldite, or similar, over the outside only junction of the pressed thread ring and the 5 inch cylinder. This will ensure that you will not have any slight electrolyte weepage from the press fit. This completes the outer case construction. Place it next to you completed inner cylinder assembly and lets move on.

E5e. All that is left to do is to complete the lower cap and ½ inch bolt support system. In the middle of the lower cap, you will need a hole that is ½ inch ( 12 mm. ) greater in diameter than the shaft diameter of the bolt. So for example, if your bolt shaft was ½ inch diameter, you would drill a 1 inch hole in the lower cap plate. This allows a ¼ inch ( 6 mm.) gap that will be filled up by your inner insulating washer.

* You now require a 1 inch ( 25 mm. ) length of thin wall tubing that you push onto the bolt until it touches the lower edge of the bolt head. Make sure that the outer diameter of this sleeve tube is not so large that it blocks the water flow in and out of the 1 inch cylinder.

* The next step is to make 2 washers from Nylon, Teflon, etc. The inner washer will be stepped ( see photo ). The smaller diameter step will have a 1 inch outer diameter and deep enough to be nearly as thick as the cap material thickness. The outer diameter of this stepped washer is not critical, so about 1.5 inches will do .The thickness of this larger diameter matches the distance that the bolt is inserted inside the 1 inch tube. So, ¼ inch ( 6 mm. ) is required in our example. This will result in the inner cylinder assembly being 1 inch above the lower cap. This insulator has a central hole drilled through it to exactly match the shaft diameter of the chosen bolt. A tight fit here will minimise and water loss down the bolt and thus out of the cell. The insulator that is on the bolt on the outside of the lower cap is easier to make. Make it about ¼ inch ( 6 mm. ) thick and 1.5 inches wide. The hole in the center is again made to match the shaft diameter of the bolt.

E5f. Now assemble the inner cylinder assembly to the lower cap plate. With clean hands, place the inner cylinder assembly top down, bolt up, on your flat plate. If not already done, slip your 1 inch long spacer sleeve onto the bolt. Next apply Vaseline ( petroleum jelly ), liberally all over the bolt shaft and inner washer. Place the inner washer onto the bolt so that the smaller diameter step is facing you and liberally cover this step with more Vaseline. Now place the lower cap onto the bolt the right way round, so that the 1 inch step of the inner insulator fits into the 1 inch hole of the lower cap. Again liberally apply Vaseline on the outer insulator and slip this over the bolt. Next, put you washer, electrical lug and nut on the bolt ( see photo ). Tighten the nut more than hand tight but not excessively. Check your handiwork, make sure you remove excess Vaseline also ensuring you do not get any on the cylinders or over the inside of the cap plate.

E5g. Take you outer casing, Vaseline the O-ring and sit it in the groove of the 5 inch male thread. Lower your completed inner assembly and make sure that the lower cap plate fits snugly into the 5 inch outer tube, without disturbing the O-ring. Take your 5 inch nut and screw it on the thread. Use reasonable force to do the nut up.

E5h. Fill the cell up right to the top with juvenile water and leave it overnight in an area or surface where you will be able to see any leaks. If there were no leaks, pour out the water and give yourself a pat on the back. Why? Because you are finished. You can now insert fresh juvenile water to the correct level and start your charging operations. Good going!


The contents of Joe cell chapters
What is the Joe cell
Some Properties of orgone
Some names for the life force
Orgone Polarity
Theory of Cell Design
materials and design
Sizes and diameters
Water types and relations to cells
Charging the water cell
Connectioning to motors
When Things go wrong
Miscellaneous Thoughts
Some Readers contributions
Brotherhood of Man A Joe cell parts supplier
index page where the contents of these chapters came fom


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